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Horses and Hacienda in Ecuador’s Northern
Highlands
Ecuador‘s northern highlands offer riders an unparalleled
equestrian paradise only an hour and a half from its bustling capitol of Quito. Spectacular scenery, colorful
indigenous markets and gracious haciendas add to an unforgettable riding vacation. You can sleep in a room
that once housed the great liberator Simon Bolivar, or
camp on a farm high in the Andes gathered around a warm fire listening to stories of the colorful Ecuadorian
cowboy culture.
We spent a night at Hacienda Pinsaqui, one of three centuries old Haciendas in
Ecuador’s northern Highlands for riding, fabulous food and a day at the famous Otavalo
market. The drive from Quito was impressive in itself, winding through magnificent mountain
farmlands. Pulling up to the whitewashed Spanish colonial Hacienda with its exquisite
200 year old gardens transforms you from the 21st century to the 18th, where a romantic
bygone lifestyle awaits. Everywhere at
Pinsaqui, the horse prevails.
Our welcome drink was a warm frothy mixture of cinnamon tea and sugar cane
liquor called a “canelazo” served in a bar that was part of the original house constructed in
1790. Ecuadorian musicians in vibrant local dress entertained us with indigenous instruments
and harmonies while a fire blazed in the historic fireplace. Equestrian trophies and
photos lined the walls, historic saddles and bridles added to the ambiance attesting to
five generations of families steeped in horse
tradition.
The Hacienda was originally a textile workshop, at one time employing 1000 local
weavers and spinners. It is only in the last ten years that the estate has become a
guest establishment. Pinsaqui’s website states that often, during the welcome drink, the
owner enters the bar atop his favorite stallion while he recounts the personal history of the
Hacienda. The owner was competing at a horse show in Quito when we were there, so
unfortunately we missed not only this unique presentation, but his prized champion show
horses as well.
I mounted a wonderfully responsive Arab-cross gelding very early in the morning
for a private ride through the countryside. What a special time to capture the sounds
and sights of Andean life awakening around us. We cantered through acres of patchwork
fields and passed women washing clothes in the river. Farmers worked oxen in wooden
yokes, making troughs in fields like their forefathers had done before them. Families
picked mushrooms to sell in the Saturday
market. Eucalyptus trees bloomed around us. We returned to the Hacienda where a
hearty breakfast was served next to a massive fireplace, the crackling fire a toasty welcome
after the chill of the cool mountain air.
Nearby Hacienda Cusin, a restored 17th Century Andean estate offers day excursions
for riders of all levels, and a two day, one night trip for experienced riders. The ride
begins in Cusin’s lake valley, climbing through glorious country to approximately 10,500 feet. Riders overnight at Casa Mojanda
before the ride back to the Hacienda. Further north, Hacienda Zuleta is
renowned for the Zuleteño horse which is a unique mixture of
Spanish-Andalusian, English and Quarter horses bred for their dispositions.
Many guests at Zuleta come specifically for three to seven day riding programs
to explore the Andean countryside along high altitude trails (between 9,000 and 11,000 feet)
that wind through ‘páramo’ grasslands and cloud forests, along
cobblestone trails and through local villages.
Through Equitours, one can ride from Hacienda to Hacienda, taking advantage of
exquisite mountain scenery and all that these historic properties have to offer. Unique tours
from Ridingholidays.com offer 4, 6 and 10 day rides through the Ecuadorian countryside
traversing spectacular bamboo and cloud forests, crossing the equator and staying in small
hostels and cottages or camping on private
farmlands. Ridingholidays.com vacations allow for memorable personal interactions
with indigenous people and their culture. Weather in the Ecuadorian Highlands is
perpetually spring-like, but tricky to predict. Riding can be done all year around. October,
February, March and April are the rainiest months, while July through September are the
driest. Good rain gear is a must, and be sure to take time to adjust to the high altitude.
No matter where you ride in the Ecuadorian Highlands, a trip to the largest
indigenous market in South America at Otavalo is a must. We arranged for a guide
who took us first to several local weaving studios, where we observed demonstrations
by indigenous weavers using centuries old techniques. One weaver, using a back strap
loom, takes a week to handloom a scarf which
he sells for seven dollars. Another weaver, one of a few who the government allows to
sign his work, uses ancient symbols in his weavings, often taking six months to complete
a rug.
The Otavalo market itself is enormous, with the largest market taking place on
Saturdays. The early morning animal market is a treat for those staying in the area.
The larger market sells food, textiles, and jewelry. Look for hand woven saddle blankets
here. Nearby is the Cotacachi leather market, where you’ll find bridles and saddles
among the finest leather goods from all of Ecuador. And one can’t go home without a
Panama hat, which are handmade, surprisingly in Ecuador!
The Otavaleno’s have a continuing sense of tribal identity and tradition. Traditional
attire is worn on normal workdays in homes, villages and fields—not just for tourists on
market day. The men are distinctive with long ponytails, calf-length white pants, rope sandals,
ponchos and dark felt hats. The women are striking in beautifully embroidered blouses,
long black skirts and shawls, brightened by numerous strings of golden blown glass
beads around their necks and long strands of red beads around their waists and arms.
Ecuador is truly one of Latin America’s best-kept secrets. It is a world of exceptional
equestrian experiences highlighted by high altitude volcanic vistas and lakes, indigenous
culture and traditions. Put it on your short list when considering a riding vacation.
Susan Seligman is a New Mexico horsewoman and freelance writer.
Ecuador Equestrian Vacation
Websites
www.Haciendacusin.com
www.HaciendaPinsaqui.com
www.HaciendaZuleta.com
www.Equitours.com
www.Ridingholidays.com
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