November  2004
On the cover: John Lang, MFH of Golden Vale Foxhounds negotiating one of the famous stone walls in Tipperary County riding his Irish Hunter, Romance (ISH), APP by Gypsy Duke (ISH) out of Glen Roisin (ISH). Photo by Elliot Framan	f e a t u r e s. The Irish Draught Horse: A Horse for all Seasons by Judie Framan... 6  Focus on Mules by Sophia Sarember... 9 Five Things You Need to Know About Bits Part Two by Kathy G. O’Neal... 8 d e p a r t m e n t s NM Quarter Horse Association Newsletter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 Stallion Showcase . . . . . . . . . . . 11 Holiday Gift Guide.  . . . . . . . . . . 13 Instructor/Trainer Directory . . . . 16 Calendar of Events  . . . .. . . . . . 17 Classified Advertising . . . . . . . .  19 Equestrian Property. . . . . . . . . . 28 Classified Advertising/Subscription Information. . . . . 30
Five Things You Need to Know About Bits Part Two by Kathy G. O’Neal    Finding the right bit can be a challenge for any horse owner. Last month, I talked about the importance of regular equine dental care, the current trend toward hackamores and bosals, and proper bit adjustment. This month’s installment includes specifics on snaffle, curb, and port bits. The Snaffle Bit   Snaffles come in all varieties. The snaffle works on the corners of the mouth, the bars, and the tongue, and for that reason has a tendency to raise the horse’s head. It is good for teaching a horse to yield to pressure, bend and help him learn to balance. I go back to the snaffle a lot if I need to supple a stiff horse or go back to basics on balance. If a horse doesn’t yield to the pressure of a snaffle, he doesn’t need to move to a curb bit until he learns that.  There are many kinds of snaffles. The thicker they are the softer they are in the horse’s mouth—although thicker is not always better if the horse doesn’t have room in his mouth to carry it. Smooth snaffles are less severe than twisted. My personal preference is what is called a slow twist. This is more severe than a smooth snaffle but not as harsh as a twisted wire. The higher the edges on the slow twist the more severe it is. The more severe snaffle is the twisted wire. A double twisted wire is what you see most often. There are single twisted wires as well, and those should be reserved for professional hands.   You see many cheek shapes. My least favorite is a loose ring snaffle because it can pinch. I prefer some kind of eggbutt or solid ring because you are distributing the pull through to the other side of the face. A horse will tolerate this kind of pull more when it is distributed over a larger area. There are full cheeks that have bars that go against the horse’s face to enhance turning. Then there is the D ring and other shapes that have more cosmetic reasons for using them. I can’t really feel the difference in the shape when I ride. But some compliment the face of the horse more than others.   The newest trend in bit design is to add copper to increase salivation. Copper is a very soft, porous metal, and tends to rust. In this day of silver and glitz, some overlook the fact that horses like sweet iron. It tastes better to the horse, which means he is more likely to salivate and move his tongue and relax his jaw. But remember that if the whole mouthpiece is copper you must check periodically for wear at the joint. The Curb Bit  There are an overwhelming variety of styles of curb bits available today. Don’t be surprised if you have to return a few bits before you find the one you like. In my experience, I have never found a bit I liked for less than $40 or $50!  The best way to make sure you have a balanced bit is to hang the mouthpiece over one finger and see if the shanks hang straight down. If it hangs behind the vertical you have an under balanced bit which will never let the curb chain release. If the shank hangs forward of the vertical it can be used for horses that have a job that might allow their noses to be forward of the vertical, such as reining, cutting or cow work. A horse wants to carry the bit in his mouth in the most comfortable position. A more balanced bit makes a horse want to carry his head more vertical.  Don’t be afraid to get a little bit of length to your shank. Some bits, especially short straight shanks, can be very quick to respond to rein pressure so the horse doesn’t get any warning when you start pulling. Therefore, if the shank is short, there is no time for the horse to respond before the curb chain hits. The straighter the shank the less time your horse has to respond to the pressure. A grazing bit has shanks that are bent back so the horse can put his head down to eat grass. As long as the shank has a little length it can be a nice bit, although it doesn’t have much leverage. This is something you might consider if you are not an experienced rider. The other common shank is the backward “S”. It increases the weight in your shank which tends to get more respect from the horse. The Ports There are many kinds of ports, and conformation of the mouth plays an important role in choosing a port. The pallets on some horses are very shallow. They are not, in general, going to tolerate very much port. So maybe a wider, lower port with more room for the tongue is better. Some ports are slanted back a little and are flat metal. These are called spoon ports and are one of my favorites. But you have to keep in mind that you can have a 2" port and not touch the palate of the mouth. It looks more severe than it is. Some are narrow and round, thus giving tongue relief but putting pressure on different part of the bars. Then there is the lift. This is the part of the bit that is between the mouthpiece and the ring the bridle hooks to. If the lift is longer than an inch it will  also put pressure on the poll. If you’re having a problem that you think is bit related, I recommend finding someone who is qualified to address the problem and take your bits and your horse to have a lesson. You will be amazed what a difference a new bit can do for your horse’s attitude and performance. Kathy O’Neal is a trainer and lifelong horsewoman who lives in Corrales, NM. She specializes in Pinto and Paint horses. She trains, shows, gives lessons to both children and adults, and presents clinics on subjects pertaining to horses and training. Kathy may be reached at 505-898- 5324. E-mail: thelivery@compronetworks.com.
Wild Kingdom  by Sophia Sarember   Donkeys have a natural hostility toward wolves, coyotes, and dogs. It may seem strange that the humble donkey would have such courage, but they have long been successfully employed to protect sheep, goat or cattle herds from canines—there are even rare reports of guard-donkeys warding off the occasional bear or mountain lion. Many mules have inherited this trait and have an inclination to protect their territory from predatory species. Consequently, it is not unusual for mules to act aggressively toward dogs by striking, kicking, trampling, or even biting and then shaking the intruder by the neck.      While I have not personally tried his method, Dr. Robert Miller DVM., author of the book “Imprint Training,” states that a mule foal can be made friendly to domestic dogs by raising it with goats in close proximity. It is obvious that some mules have been successfully desensitized to their aversion for dogs by some means—or perhaps never had a dislike for dogs to begin with. A number of mules live peaceably with a familiar pet-domestic dog or are accustomed to working with hounds during hunting. It has been reported that some full grown mules are not tolerant of calves, equine foals, or other small, young or vulnerable species, so it is wise to keep these animals separated and protected from your mule until you are certain of their safety.   Incidentally, while my own saddle-mule strongly dislikes dogs, he has kept company with small and miniature donkeys, treated them with respect, showed them no harm, and even bonded with them. Other creatures such as rabbits have co-existed in a small corral with my mule without harm. Some muleteers have reported their molly (female) mules to have bonded with orphaned horse foals or calves—and have even gone on to “raise” them, protecting and caring for them as if they were their own offspring. In addition, there is no strict rule that mules only get along with horses and do not like donkeys. Truly, each mule must be evaluated as an individual.   Deer, elk, antelope (pronghorn), and prairie dogs apparently perceive mules as some other wild, harmless herbivore—or at least do not closely associate mules with man and civilization. I have repeatedly ridden my mule amazingly close to these creatures, without them giving me the slightest indication of concern. Having come within a stride of wild deer and elk, my saddle mule was completely at ease. On several occasions the deer’s reaction was only to give a quizzical gaze to my presence in the saddle. During those times I remained quiet, unobtrusive and benevolent, but I was undoubtedly noticed and evidently accepted because of the mule. Keep small animals protected until you know they will be safe with your mule. Next Month’s Series: Sinking, Cold Back and Bucking  Sophia Sarember is a trainer, writer, and “muleteer” living in Edgewood, NM. She can be reached at Mulegal@aol.com.

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